The Bastard Bourbon Black Label Cask Strength Review

A bottle of bourbon in front of a red background

Proof: 122
Price: $120 listed retail
Age: 5 years
Mashbill: 76% corn, with undisclosed proportions of rye and malted barley
Bottled by: Desert Ghost Distilling Co., Marathon, Texas
Barrel: BF-93

The Story

I paid more attention to what was in the glass than what was on the price tag. That made for an enjoyable afternoon at Desert Ghost and a slightly different conversation once I got home.

My wife and I visited the Marathon distillery during a West Texas trip. I’d been following Desert Ghost for a couple of years, and finally getting out there meant settling in for a flight, cocktails, and a few special pours from behind the bar. Isaac made us feel welcome, and I enjoyed the whiskey enough to bring home both the three-year bourbon and this five-year Black Label.

At 122 proof, the cask-strength Black Label promised a different experience from its younger sibling. Back home, with time to sit with barrel BF-93, I found a bourbon I enjoy, though its current $120 asking price gives me pause.

Nose

The nose is fairly light, with wood, cinnamon, brown sugar, and puffed corn cereal. A little hay comes through as well.

Ethanol makes the subtler aromas difficult to pick out, though Texas allergies may have been contributing to that particular struggle. The bourbon had rested before I began tasting. Adding a little water later made the nose sweeter and more pronounced.

Taste

The mouthfeel is a little thin, and the entry delivers less flavor intensity than I expected from a 122-proof bourbon. What’s there is enjoyable, though: rounded caramel, vanilla, oak, and brown sugar.

Those flavors build through the mid-palate. They don’t change dramatically, but they become more pronounced before quickly giving way to cinnamon Red Hots and a slightly vegetal note on the finish.

The finish lasts a medium to medium-long stretch, with a little dryness.

A splash of water brings out a campfire caramel note. I wouldn’t say it improves the bourbon so much as changes its character, which makes for an interesting pour. I could see this working well alongside a charcuterie board and some salty crackers.

A bottle of bourbon next to a Glencairn glass in front of a red backdrop

Conclusion

I enjoy this bottle, and I’ll happily reach for it again. Replacing it is a different question. At $120 for a five-year bourbon, I want more depth and a fuller mouthfeel than this barrel delivers. I’d be interested in tasting an older release, but I’d need to try it before committing to another bottle at that price.

There’s good flavor here, particularly as the sweetness builds through the mid-palate, and water gives it another side worth exploring. For now, I’m content to enjoy the bottle I have.

Planning a Visit to Desert Ghost?

The flight was only part of what made our stop memorable. For the tasting room atmosphere, cocktails, and practical details for a West Texas visit, check out my Desert Ghost Distillery Guide.

Disclosure: I purchased this bottle. We paid for our flight and cocktails; the special behind-the-bar samples were complimentary.

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